There are very few things in life worth hating. Fear can be used as motivation, but hatred has no purpose. Each of us has a duty to rid the hatred in our lives and fill it with love and compassion. The hatred I've been dealing with is that of missing epic sessions. I hate it when it's firing and I can't be out there. I become antsy, irritable, and turn into a pretty miserable person to be around. I'm learning though, yesterday was firing, and I managed to watch everyone surf one of my favorite spots and I actually enjoyed it! It's a small step with a long process to go, but I'm learning and I challenge everyone to conquer their hatred and learn from it. We are all so blessed.
The surf is sick and it should be good all week. Here's Luifer's first barrel!
Older brother Pipe