Monday, September 24, 2012

Sailed a new spot today.  "bigger and better than any waveriding spot I've ever sailed" as the King once said.  Not today, Epicly gnarley sums it up pretty well.  Also, the best windsurfing movie ever made,    R.I.P. is up on the web for free. So stoked!

This winter is looking promising, I've heard whispers that our good buddy El Nino is coming back after a two year hiatus.

Thursday, July 19, 2012

Here's a quote supposedly from the Dalai Lama. It might be a fake but I still lake it, "The Dalai Lama, when asked what surprised him most about humanity, answered, ‘Man. Because he sacrifices his health in order to make money. Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health. And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived.’" It sounds to me like Seneca

Thursday, June 14, 2012

Back to Maui!!

Back to Maui for a few days and then heading off to Oahu to look for places and hopefully get some more surf. Costa Rica was incredible, surf everyday. I've never been on a surf trip where there was waves everyday. Super fun. I'll have some stories and pics as soon as I go through them all, plus some Chile stories, surf travel info and toilet talk. Lots of action to come. Here is a pick from a Chilean sunset, pretty much everyday looked like this

Thursday, April 19, 2012

Traveling again

It's amazing what you can get away with with a smile, a little kindness, and better to ask for forgiveness than permission attitude.

Right now I'm stuck in L.A. I've been here for 10 hours, and I still have 7 to go. Miserable, no. With a smile and a few jokes I managed to use my expired free pass ticket to get into the American Admirals club. Free food, showers, make shift beds, and free beer!! Also, more serious haircuts, suits and ties, and computer tablets than I have ever seen.

One of my favorite travel stories is from my second year doing the PWA tour. I was coming back from Lanzarote in the Canaries to Maui. I had partied pretty hard the night before and woke up hurting. I spent the entire 3 hour flight from Lanzarote to London sick in the bathroom. Not fun. I was flying with the Prichards and a few other people and when we got into London they told me they were going to travel through Europe and that I was going to take their gear the rest of the way home. I was the rookie, so they weren't asking, they were telling me. We collected out bags and they set me up right in front of the check in counter. I built myself a bed out of the 27 pieces of windsurfing gear and slept there until my flight in the morning. 27 bags, how was I going to do this? Were they going to belive that all of this stuff belonged to me? How much was this going to cost? I hear about surfers and golfers complaining about traveling, they have no idea. I picked the nicest looking lady, smiled, and handed over my passport. I tried to get a few jokes in, and tell my story about sleeping on the floor. "Are you checking any bags?" The moment of truth. "Yes, 27 pieces, that pile over there." Luckily for me, she didn't freak out, she laughed and said I must be a windsurfer. Golden. She charged about half of what I was expecting, didn't weigh any of them, and then bumped up to business class the whole way home. To top it all off she made a note that I was traveling with so many bags, and when I got to customs in L.A. they pushed my bags through for me. The guys whose bags I carried couldn't belive it.

It's amazing with a little smile and kindness can do.

Saturday, April 7, 2012

Some videos

Sick video from Chile, skip to the 4th minute though. Love the music.

Don't love the music on this one.

Maui has been packed. Photo shoot season is here and it's good to see everyone.

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Dumpster Diving

Wow, how about this rain? Scored some epic surf, and have been catching up on the movies lately. The last one I saw was Seabiscuit. It's about a horse, trainer, rich guy, and nation that was down and out. Destined for mediocracy, misery, or being killed, this horse, trainer, rich guy and nation with a little love and determination became something great. It's about not giving up on someone because there a little banged up, every life is precise.

Well, I went dumpster diving this week and scored a 7'5"ish(it doesn't say what size it is) Ole longboard/funboard that was going to be chopped up and turned into filler foam to fix other boards. A classic board that should be on a wall somewhere not chopped and discarded. It needs some repairs but it has plenty of life left in it.

Stay dry here are some videos to hold you over.

This guys mental

Also there is a free download for Walls of Perception here you have to enter your email, but you can stop there emails they send you. I even made it into the background a few times!!

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Auxillary Studios+Funny ass vidoes

Starting a new training program with NakPak and Auxillary Studios to get myself in shape and stop getting injured.

World Class Big Wave Training from Auxiliary Studios on Vimeo.

And now a funny video..

Yeah we’re native. We live in grass shacks, wear hula skirts and malos, eat coconuts everyday, jump off cliffs, and climb bamboo trees. One day a GoPro drifted ashore next to one of our huts so we decided to make a video for the world to see our island paradise. WARNING: Please do not try these stunts unless under the supervision of a Hawaiian. Aloha A Hui Hou.


Here is another, not at all related to first two but damn funny with some dumb ass people.

The music fits perfectly

Thursday, February 16, 2012

To ride a wave

through cracked ribs, broken bones, torn ligaments, head injuries, sprains, lacerations, bumps, bruises and rashes, why do we do it? After we kick out, why is our first thought on getting another one?

Is it because it is our only chance to touch, feel, and ride something naturally elemental. Different kinds of waves are everywhere but our interactions with most of them are minimal. They give us sun burns, we fell sound waves course through our body, but we don't get the chance to dance upon them and feel their power unleashed. The natural beauty and godly sublimeness of it all etches its way into our minds, hearts, and souls and keeps us coming back through anything and everything.

I'm out of the water again with a neck and back injury. Not my favorite but I'm letting it heal and not pushing it this time! Lots of carnage at Ho'okipa this week.
Found this epic picture of Robby at Pipeline on a Kona day in 1987. I wasn't even born yet. I would love to see the videos from this.

And now me getting pounded and later swimming into Kuau after a failed attempt at Mama's. P.s. That is my foot, and yes it really sucked.

Me not getting pounded.

Friday, January 27, 2012

Cancel Wal-Mart and all the other useless crap

This is the best video I've seen that covers the design flawed system we live in. I found this on Tatiana's blog

Then I found this quote from Victor Lebow:

"Our enormously productive economy demands that we make consumption our way of life, that we convert the buying and use of goods into rituals, that we seek our spiritual satisfactions, our ego satisfactions, in consumption. The measure of social status, of social acceptance, of prestige, is now to be found in our consumptive patterns. The very meaning and significance of our lives today expressed in consumptive terms. The greater the pressures upon the individual to conform to safe and accepted social standards, the more does he tend to express his aspirations and his individuality in terms of what he wears, drives, eats- his home, his car, his pattern of food serving, his hobbies.
These commodities and services must be offered to the consumer with a special urgency. We require not only “forced draft” consumption, but “expensive” consumption as well. We need things consumed, burned up, worn out, replaced, and discarded at an ever increasing pace. We need to have people eat, drink, dress, ride, live, with ever more complicated and, therefore, constantly more expensive consumption. The home power tools and the whole “do-it-yourself” movement are excellent examples of “expensive” consumption."

Hopefully we are moving away from those ideas and more into the thinking of Paul Hawken in his book Ecology of Commerce.

Epic swells coming, the one on Tuesday just got 2 upgrades from the weather models!!! Could be Epic!!!!

Monday, January 23, 2012

Videos+Goods and bads for the week

Amazing Footage!

I know it's an add, but if this doesn't make you want to surf nothing will.

Craig Anderson Moments from Quiksilver Australia on Vimeo.

Quick sale produce and Mana and their $1 ice cream cones
Girlfriend coming home!

2 day long hangovers
Sore back and no sailing

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Sunday, January 15, 2012

Epic Start to 2012

If you like Planet Earth, this is a must watch video. It's long, but worth watching, and if your an ostrich with it's head buried in the sand, turn off the sound and put on some music.

I'm going to have a new section on here, every Sunday I will post a like and don't like section to sum up the week.
This weeks likes and don't likes are:

Being in the Ocean more hours then sleeping
Being the last person on the water
Getting pounded and quickly humbled by the power of the ocean
Outer reefs breaking from top to bottom
Hitting a mast and half outer reef lip
Tourists tipping me fat
Kona winds

Don't likes
Working more hours than sleeping
Haole kooks with bad vibes
Getting caught inside with lines stacking up on the outside
People ditching their boards right in front of me
Pretty much everything else tourists do

Monday, January 9, 2012

The best week so far

It's a good week when you spend more time in the ocean than sleeping. Three back to back solid swells in the last week. Glassy morning surf session and afternoon sailing.

Pe'ahi was a zoo on the water and on the cliff. Here's a vid of the madness. As I said here in a post last year, that one wave from Danilo has changed everything out there. Epic wipeouts. Albee's barrel at 3:40 was amazing. The lineup is filled with the best big wave and paddle in surfers in the world, and the little local Maui kid gets the wave of the day.

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