Summer and Epic surf aren't mentioned together very often. This summer has been different though. The swells haven't been over hyped, they've met even the most optimistic forecasts. As if they were making up for the last few years of advisory level ankle slappers.
Lots of smiles and lots of uncrowded waves. This last swell was the best I've seen in years and I got to surf one of those misto nameless, often mind-surfed but never ridden, breaks only in your dreams and on the right tide sort of waves. It was sick!