To ride a wave

through cracked ribs, broken bones, torn ligaments, head injuries, sprains, lacerations, bumps, bruises and rashes, why do we do it? After we kick out, why is our first thought on getting another one?

Is it because it is our only chance to touch, feel, and ride something naturally elemental. Different kinds of waves are everywhere but our interactions with most of them are minimal. They give us sun burns, we fell sound waves course through our body, but we don't get the chance to dance upon them and feel their power unleashed. The natural beauty and godly sublimeness of it all etches its way into our minds, hearts, and souls and keeps us coming back through anything and everything.


I'm out of the water again with a neck and back injury. Not my favorite but I'm letting it heal and not pushing it this time! Lots of carnage at Ho'okipa this week.
Found this epic picture of Robby at Pipeline on a Kona day in 1987. I wasn't even born yet. I would love to see the videos from this.

And now me getting pounded and later swimming into Kuau after a failed attempt at Mama's. P.s. That is my foot, and yes it really sucked.

Me not getting pounded.