Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Summer+Epic Surf

Summer and Epic surf aren't mentioned together very often. This summer has been different though. The swells haven't been over hyped, they've met even the most optimistic forecasts. As if they were making up for the last few years of advisory level ankle slappers.

Lots of smiles and lots of uncrowded waves. This last swell was the best I've seen in years and I got to surf one of those misto nameless, often mind-surfed but never ridden, breaks only in your dreams and on the right tide sort of waves. It was sick!

Thursday, July 7, 2011

No Hate in the 808

There are very few things in life worth hating. Fear can be used as motivation, but hatred has no purpose. Each of us has a duty to rid the hatred in our lives and fill it with love and compassion. The hatred I've been dealing with is that of missing epic sessions. I hate it when it's firing and I can't be out there. I become antsy, irritable, and turn into a pretty miserable person to be around. I'm learning though, yesterday was firing, and I managed to watch everyone surf one of my favorite spots and I actually enjoyed it! It's a small step with a long process to go, but I'm learning and I challenge everyone to conquer their hatred and learn from it. We are all so blessed.

The surf is sick and it should be good all week. Here's Luifer's first barrel!

Older brother Pipe