Sunday, January 30, 2011


On the injured list again. I think I pulled a muscle in my back last week. The sailing was totally worth it though. Skylar and I scored Hookipa to ourselves for a little bit. Nice size sets coming in too. Anyone know of a good message/chiro guy that takes HMSA insurance? Got a great message from Donna soooo good.

I think I can handle another week before I go crazy. Random video but it's hilarious!

This thai kid is funny as hell too!!

Friday, January 14, 2011

New Water Park Opening in Kihei!!!

My uncle sent me this picture. This is South Kihei rd. right be the cove and Kalama park. The little bit of road that you can see is the parking lot, the street is completely covered up! So crazy. The water is going to be chocolate over there for a while. Last weeks rain already made the water brown and this one has just added on top of it. The problem over there is that the currents don't run very fast out to sea. Most of the dirty water heads North and backs up in the bay around mud flats. Doo doo water on the North shore clears up pretty quickly although it is really nasty when the estuary that runs out at kite beach opens up. That water has been sitting there for a long time and it's all the runoff from Kahului. If you want to check it out, look into the ditch by costco parking lot. We humans really are vile creatures to the earth...

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Fingers crossed

Still a week out, but could be amazing. Fun sailing today, really bummed I missed the lanes session, check out Jimmies gallery!/album.php?fbid=175204789183860&id=100000830216933&aid=31050.

Plastic bag ban has taken into effect. It's about time too, but now they have been replaced with paper bags which for the most part are flown in and will end up in the land fill. It's a step in the right direction though...

New Dakine store has opened up in Paia as well. Really nice store and I think they will do well there, I'm really going to miss the canary outlet though...

Monday, January 10, 2011

Long range

Nothing epic today but man it was fun. First day of school and still managed to get two surf sessions and a windsurfing session in. I feel like Napoleon...

I know it's a long range forecast and my girlfriend thinks I'm crazy for checking it, but look at the size of that storm! It probably will amount to nothing but whatever!

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Could be sick!

It could be Kona winds lanes tomorrow! Let's see what happens though. I doubt it will be anything like this. Thanks for the vid GP. You might want to turn the sound off when you listen to it though...

Wednesday, January 5, 2011

Surf forecasting sucks!!

I hope you guys don't mind a boring post about swell forecasting, but this is what I do on the internet when I'm not making blog posts.

I think I spend more time checking swell/wind forecasts then actually being in the water. Maybe not, but I definitely kill a lot of time. First up is windguru. Although their wave forecasting isn't great they do a pretty good job with wind reports. The wind speed numbers aren't too reliable but, I'm usually not too concerned with what the numbers show for wind speed, I'm more interested if the wind is trending up or down. Wind guru is great for showing that, she can be a lying bitch though.

Next it's on to the the stomrsurf wave models. I've spent years looking at these, following each swell from a week out until it's on our shores. This is where the excitement starts and where I get my first peak of the waves that are coming. I remember nicknaming one storm "the golden swell" because it's wave heights were past red, purple, black, and white and were into the golden area of 52 foot +! That swell kind of missed us and hit the west coast head on. I really like them because they give you a week in advance look at what is going on, and they can help you pinpoint when the waves are going to hit. They can all be found here. Be careful though, there are way too many of them and they can kill a lot of time.

Another wave model I like is Lajolla
I kind of average this with the stormsurf ones. A few years back we had a monster south swell, Maalaea was 8 foot plus, Gerry Lopez was there, they closed the road to Makena. I looked at Lajolla, and the whole South Pacific was one giant storm heading straight up.

After that it's onto to to check the weathermap I don't really know what all of the little numbers mean or the zigg zagg lines, but when somethings going on it's easy to tell.

After that it's onto the swell forecasting sites, I will check these until the day of the waves. I kind of average these all together and try and figure it out.
Pat Caldwell gives you a great report(if you live in Oahu), with storm info, direction of fetch, local conditions, and what to expect.

Surfline would be great except I'm not going to pay for it.

Surf newsnetwork is pretty good, more for Oahu though.

OMaui supposed to be focused on Maui, but they miss it sometimes. Eric does a great job though. The comment board is fun to read sometimes, so much anger...

Swell info's a bit hit and miss.

Then there are the buoys which shouldn't lie but they do too. I will check these on the day of the swell too. With all of this I try to factor in island shadowing, the nuances and moods of different breaks, past experiences with similar swells, and tides.

Last but not least is the webcams, which have saved me a ton of gas, but wasted a ton of time.

After all of this checking, I have to decide which toys to take with me on any give day. Windsurf gear? Always have to have at least the big board and sail. Longboard? 6'0" small wave board? 6'3" everyday shortboard? 7'0" gun? Should I get the tow board and ski ready? North, South, East, West, where am I going? What's my rush anyways, shouldn't I be relaxing on my day off?

I could count all of this time spent as preparation, but the fact is you never know what it's going to be like until you look at it. Until you see it with your own eyes, smell the spray in the air and feel the lumps rolling under you board. Before all of this technology you know how people predicted the weather/swells? By looking at the world around them reading the subtle stories in the clouds, winds, trees, stars, and animals. Sounds like a lot more fun to me. So, maybe I'll just turn off the computer for a month, stuff my fingers in my ears, and not talk to anyone about surf. Anyone want to join me?

I have to put this video up again. The barrel the David Scarb gets should win ride of the year at the XXL awards. When I first looked at it I thought he got towed in, but now I think he actually paddled into that monster.

Cloudbreak September 2010 from Surfing Life on Vimeo.

Saturday, January 1, 2011

The winds coming back!

No post lately sorry, had a bad internet connection and I'm having problems with my macbook. Anyone know where to fix a macbook.

We hiked into the crater last week. Coming out sliding sands was rough. Surfed our asses off as well. Every side of the island and all different kinds of waves.

Tourist season is in full effect, such a feast or famine industry.

Christmas break is almost over, and I'm not ready to go back to school.

Finished Dan Brown's book The Lost Symbol. Pretty standard Dan Brown, but I really like the themes of the book. They talk about how we really are all one and science is slowing proving it. Also, that we need to start thinking of each other as brothers and not distant strangers. Another cool idea is that our thoughts have weight, can be measured, and have an effect on the physical world. All cool ideas for sure. The book is a bit repetitive with they are screwed moments, and then they just barely make it, and then they are screwed again...

Now I'm reading The Wave by Susan somethinrather. Super stoked on it.