Tuesday, August 31, 2010

To me September 1st is the unofficial end to summer. It's might not be the start to the winter wave season in Maui, but there is hope for surf. We might not get waves until mid October, but there's usually hope once we're past August. Glad I got some surf this summer in Mexico. Here is a picture of my transportation around Puerto. I usually surfed the dawn session to avoid the crowds and the heat. It would get so hot during mid day that I would hide out in the shade somewhere. The Super Che is the big supermarket in town, it has everything you need and more importantly it has air conditioning. I spent at least an hour or two in there everyday shopping, reading magazines or just cruising.
Pray for surf surf...

Here is another example of a wave and entire community that is in danger.

Friday, August 27, 2010

There's some fun windswell out there for jumping. Sailing has been fun all week and it should be getting better as well. See you out there.

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Some fun windswell out there today. Last weeks south swell turned out to be pretty fun as well. Here is a picture of the worlds biggest tree, measured by circumference.

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Here (http://www.sas.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Final-WAR.pdf)
is an interesting article about the value of waves to not only to surfers but entire communities. It describes the basics of how waves are formed, travel across oceans, and set up along the shoreline. It's not possible to calculate the intrinsic value of a surf spot like Kanaha or Hookipa, but it would be fun to know the value of those spots in dollars to the communities around them. My guess is that it would be a lot more then most people would imagine. It's all of our responsibilities to protect them. Three of the best surf spots in Maui are in danger of development right now, Honolua bay(http://www.savehonolua.org/) Makena(savemakena.org) and Maalaea(http://www.surfrider.org/maui/savemaalaea.htm). Check out the sites and see if you can do anything to help.

Surf in Mexico

I'll have daily posts about the trip, just getting settled into work here and Maui life again. Here are a couple pictures from Mexico. They don't really show how epic it was. "The Mexican Pipeline" which is Zicatela beach is a knarly beach break that usually closes out, but can have great barrels. About a mile down the beach is La Punta which is a long left with three barrel sections, sandy bottom and perfect offshore wind. I surfed there everyday. This was a small day, but you could still catch it from the outside, get barreled, shoot the rock, pull in again and get shacked all the way to the inside, ride up onto the sand and walk back to the point. Epic. The wave goes another 50 yards or so past the photo.

Friday, August 13, 2010


Here is a couple of pictures from the jungle in Colombia. I spent ten days there with Laura and her family. Nothing but good vibes the entire trip. They showed me around the city, took me through the rainforest, into the jungle and around the coast. So much Aloha...